35
Ibid. P. 4; Okawa. Licensing Practices; Stotskopf N. Frères Willot // Dictionnaire historique des patrons français / Ed. Jean-Claude Daumas. Paris: Flammarion, 2010. P. 723–725.
36
Daumas J.‑C. Bernard Arnault // Daumas, Dictionnaire historique des patrons français. P. 32; Di Maria E. Bergé, Others Join Bidermann in Agache-Willot Takeover Bid // Women’s Wear Daily. 1984. December 17. P. 11.
37
Herndon B. Bergdorf’s on the Plaza: The Story of Bergdorf Goodman and a Half-Century of American Fashion. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1956. P. 226; Milbank C. R. New York Fashion: The Evolution of American Style. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1989. P. 238–247, 250.
38
Pouillard V. Christian Dior – New York: French Fashion in the US Luxury Market // Global Luxury: Organization Change and Emerging Markets in the Luxury Industry since the 1970s / Eds Pierre-Yves Donzé and Rika Fujioka. London: Palgrave Macmillan, 2018. P. 111–131; Christian Dior USA box, Historique file, «Brief History» (недатированная заметка около. середины 1980‑х годов), CDNY, DSAA; Arnault: Recharging Dior // Women’s Wear Daily. 1986. February 7. P. 4–5; Okawa. Licensing Practices. P. 95–96, 104; Donzé P.‑Y., Pouillard V. Luxury // The Routledge Companion to the Makers of Global Business / Eds Teresa da Silva Lopes, Christina Lubinski, and Heidi Tworek. London: Routledge, 2019. P. 111–131.
39
Summary of Christian Dior licensees (men’s). 1987. CDNY, DSAA; Di Maria E. Dior, Nearing 40, Has Big Plans in Works // Women’s Wear Daily. 1986. October 28. P. 11; Bhattacharjee N. PVH United Calvin Klein Lines in $2.8 Billion Deal // Reuters Business News. 31 October 2012. Lewis and Fraley, Patrick Kelly.
40
Summary of Christian Dior licensees (men’s). 1, 2. Письмо Доминик Морлотти к Бернару Арно, б. д., 1. Design Information, Menswear division, dossiers from CD Paris, CDNY, DSAA.
41
Summary of Christian Dior licensees (women’s). 1987. CDNY, DSAA; Di Maria E. Dior’s Net Slips 8.9% in ’85 // Women’s Wear Daily. 1986. June 27. P. 2; Daumas. Bernard Arnault. P. 33.
42
Pouillard. Christian Dior – New York. P. 123.
43
Summary of Christian Dior licensees (accessories). 1987. CDNY, DSAA.
44
Ibid. P. 3.
45
Okawa. Licensing Practices. P. 93.
46
Di Maria. Dior, Nearing 40. P. 11.
47
Crawford M. D. C. The Ways of Fashion. New York: G. P. Putnam’s Sons, 1941. P. 190; Di Maria E. Agache to Go to Real Estate Firm // Women’s Wear Daily. 1984. December 18. P. 8; Arnault Will Become Dior Chairman Today // Women’s Wear Daily. 1985. March 20. P. 13; Arnault: Recharging Dior; Deeny G., Doyle K. Bernard Arnault: Dream Merchant // Women’s Wear Daily. 1990. April 16. P. 4–5; Daumas. Bernard Arnault. P. 30–32; Daumas J.‑C. Marcel Boussac, 1889–1980 // Dictionnaire historique des patrons français / Ed. Jean-Claude Daumas. Paris: Flammarion, 2010. P. 120–122; Okawa. Licensing Practices. P. 94–99; Stotskopf N. Frères Willot. P. 723–725.
48
Summary of Christian Dior licensees (men’s). 1987. CDNY, DSAA; Pouillard, Christian Dior – New York. P. 111–131; Donzé. Les patrons horlogers.
49
Advertising. One-page document. CDNY, DSAA.
50
Ibid.; Sicard M.‑C. La métamorphose des marques: Le roc, l’étoile et le nuage. Paris: Eyrolles, 1998.
51
Public Relations, 1–2, CDNY, DSAA.
52
Historique Christian Dior – New York, Real estate folder, CDNY, DSAA; Milbank. New York Fashion. P. 268.
53
Bastien V., Kapferer J.‑N. Luxe oblige. Paris: Eyrolles, 2012. P. 414–415.
54
Thomas D. Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Lustre. London: Penguin Books Ltd, 2007 (ch. 6); Hayward K., Yar M. The Chav Phenomenon: Consumption Media and the Construction of a New Underclass // Crime Media Culture. 2006. Vol. 2. № 1. P. 9–28; Okawa. Licensing Practices. P. 97–99, 106; Donzé P.‑Y., Fujioka R. European Luxury Big Business and Emerging Asian Markets, 1960–2010 // Business History. 2015. Vol. 57. № 6. P. 822–840; Kapferer J.‑N. Abundant Rarity: The Key to Luxury Growth // Business Horizons. 2012. Vol. 55. P. 453–462; Dummet B., Kapner S. Tiffany Receives $14.5 Billion Takeover Offer from LVMH // Wall Street Journal. 2019. October 28 [электронный ресурс]. www.wsj.com/articles/lvmh-makes-all-cash-takeover-bid-for-tiffany-at-roughly-120-a-share-11572190804.
55
Daumas. Bernard Arnault. P. 34.
56
Donzé and Fujioka, European Luxury Big Business. Rofel L., Yanagisako S., Segre Reinach S. Fabricating Transnational Capitalism: A Collaborative Ethnography of Italian – Chinese Global Fashion. Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 2019.
57
Chua R. Y. J., Eccles R. G. Managing Creativity at Shanghai Tang, Case Study № 410-018, Harvard Business School, 2009; Chrétien-Ichikawa, La réémergence de la mode en Chine et le rôle du Japon. Rofel and Yanagisako, Fabricating Transnational Capitalism.
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Okonkwo U. The Luxury Brand Strategy Challenge // Journal of Brand Management. 2009. Vol. 16. № 5/6. P. 287–289; Deloitte, Global Powers of Luxury Goods 2019: Bridging the Gap between the Old and the New. London: Deloitte, 2019. P. 3; Donzé P.‑Y., Wubs B. LVMH: Storytelling and Organizing Creativity in Luxury and Fashion // Blaszczyk and Pouillard, European Fashion. P. 63–85; Jones and Pouillard. Christian Dior: A New Look.
59
Alaïa A. Catalogue d’exposition. Paris Musées – Palais Galliera, 2013; Rousseau C. Dans l’antre d’Azzedine Alaïa // M Magazine Le Monde. 2019. September 28. P. 61–67.
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Gandon E. Vent d’Est sur la mode parisienne // Saillard, Fashion Mix. P. 42; Donzé P.‑Y., Pouillard V. The Luxury Business // Lopes, Lubinski, and Tworek, Routledge Companion to the Makers of Global Business. P. 433.
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Deloitte, Global Powers of Luxury Goods 2015: Engaging the Future Luxury Consumer, Deloitte Touche Tohmatsu Ltd, 2015 [электронный ресурс]. www2.deloitte.com/content/dam/Deloitte/ch/Documents/consumer-business/ch-en-cb-global-powers-of-luxury-goods-2015.pdf; Donzé and Pouillard. Luxury Business. P. 432; Bacqué R. Kaiser Karl. Paris: Albin Michel, 2019.
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